As much as Miss Menu loves summer’s corn, tomatoes and sunny afternoons, I can’t help but get a smidge excited when the temperature starts to drop, the leaves start to turn and the corn and tomatoes give way to winter squash, apples and the other produce that fall brings.
Fall inevitably ushers in an increased wave of creative cookery for me. Summer meals tend to be more simple, and involve less actual cooking (thanks to an extra-hot kitchen made all the more hot once I switch on the oven). But come fall, I find myself stove-side, eager to whip up soups, casseroles and other heartier fare.
Lately, I’ve been spending more time with some veggie-focused cookbooks to provide some inspiration for my autumnal cooking. Mark
Bittman’s How to Cook Everything Vegetarian is an invaluable resource for all things veggie related. I love the way this particular book is organized—instead of separate chapters for each course, you’ll find different sections devoted to grains, legumes or produce—plus, I love the endless variations for each recipe. His recipes definitely open your eyes to new veggie possibilities: Kale pie, anyone? Or how about some tomato cobbler? Integrating more vegetables into my menu making is a top priority for this season, and these are the kinds of recipes that can help a girl reach that goal!
The other veggie-centric cookbook that I’m exploring is an oldie but a goodie. Mollie Katzen’s The New Moosewood Cookbook was first published in 1977, then re-released in 2000 with new and improved recipes. It’s definitely a smaller collection than Bittman’s, and the recipes can be difficult to interpret (one squash casserole calls for 2 cups cooked and puréed squash, for example, without any instructions on how to cook or purée said squash, or which squash to use), but the collection is infused with creative inspiration and novel flavor combinations.
From Bittman’s tome, I’m eager to try this supremely seasonal Green Tomato-Apple Chutney. Bittman recommends serving the condiment alongside eggs, but I can envision it served on its own on toasts or alongside some mild white fish. And thanks to Katzen’s inspiration, I plan to use the last of summer’s zucchini to create these Zucchini-Feta Pancakes.
Green Tomato-Apple Chutney
From Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything Vegetarian
- 1/4 cup unsalted peanuts
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
- 6 whole cloves
- 3 dried Thai or other red hot chiles
- 1 teaspoon garam masala
- 1 large red onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
- Salt
- 1 large green tomato
- 1 cored green apple
- 3 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
Put the peanuts, butter, mustard seeds, cloves and chiles in a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes, then add garam masala and cook, stirring, another 2 minutes.
Add the onion and a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until the onion begins to soften, then add the tomatoes, tomato paste and curry powder and cook, stirring often until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature and serve, removing the cloves (if you like).
Zucchini-Feta Pancakes
From Mollie Katzen’s The Moosewood Cookbook
- 4 eggs, separated (yolks optional)
- 4 packed cups coarsely grated zucchini (about 4 medium-sized zucchini, grated in a food processor)
- 1 cup finely crumbled feta cheese
- 1/2 cup finely minced scallions
- 1 teaspoon dried mint or 1 tablespoon fresh, finely minced
- A pinch of salt
- Lots of black pepper
- 1/3 cup flour
- Oil for frying
- Sour cream or yogurt for topping
Beat the egg whites until stiff.
In a medium bowl, combine zucchini, egg yolks, feta, scallions, seasoning and flour. Mix well.
Heat a little oil in a heavy skillet. When it is very hot, add spoonfuls of batter, and fry on both sides until golden and crisp. Serve immediately, topped with sour cream or yogurt.